Power Endurance Training 11-09-10

WARM UP
20-30 minutes climbing yellows, orange, blue. I climb with minimal rest until I started feeling a slight forearm pump.

4x4 Training
Climb each problem 4 consecutive times with 4 minutes rest between each set.
Pink V3
Red V4
White V5 (X-2 only) this particular white was very hard.
White V5
White V5
White V5
Black V6 (Sloper and pinch climb, easy on the fingers, a good one to finish with after a long 4x4 session.

*26 boulder problems total*

Basic Strength Exercises
3 sets of 5 Dips
3 sets of 5 Pseudo Planche Push Ups

L-Sit PB 4x15 sec. holds (still shake a bit toward the end of the 15 sec.)
-Run out of time to finish my wall walks and planche training.

**Very good workout today. I was able to repeat every climb 4 times and learn new beta and better body movement toward the end of each set. I was very surpriced that the climbs didn't feel harder towards the end.
Climbing the same problems that I climbed last week was a good thing because I was able to remember beta and work on gripping the holds with just enough force to stay on the wall and not overgrip.
This is by far the best climbing exercise I have tried, I feel like I make a lot a progress with only 3 sessions. I also feel(and it shows on my journal)like I am moving my base strength towards V5 V6.
When I get to the point where I can do V6 all day long, then I might be able to work on V10.

Note: Do one more 4x4 workout session before the trip to Bishop and don't skip the week rest.

Max Strength Training Log 11-06-10

Today I decided to do a strength training day. I know that I am on my Tolerance Phase but I feel like I could use more strength before my trip to Bishop.

This was my first Hangboard workout, I didn't want to injure a finger or cause any problems before the first bouldering trip of the seasson, so I decided not to add any weight to the hangs.

Warm UP.
Jump rope - to get the heart rate up
Pull ups on the guys to prepare the fingers and the forearms for the hangboard training.
Did 3 sets of 6 hight pull ups ("high pull ups I do by pulling up higher than a normal pull into the area where I can start pressing for a dip. Like bar muscle ups) This "high pull up exercise seems to really help will wrist and forearm strength, plus it feels good to pull up that high. very powerfull.

Hangboard workout (no weight added)
sets of 5X10 second hangs with 3 minutes rest between sets.
1. slopers 5X10 (add 20lbs next time)
2. 4 fingers 1 pad. open crimps (add 20lbs next time)
3. 3 fingers 2 pad. open crimps (add 10lbs next time)
4. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (smallest edge) open crimp(add 10lbs next time)
5. 2 finger 2nd team - 5-5-5-3-2. Pain toward end of set (take 10lbs off next time)
6. 3 finger 1 pad wide grip. 5 sec. hangs. HARD (take 10lbs off next time)
7. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (add 20lbs next time)
8. 2 finger 3rd team. 5 sec. hangs. (add 10lbs next time)

Note: Overall it felt very good except for the minor pain during the 2 finger pocket hangs. Next time I should warm up the fingers more, tape and hang straight down and try not to pull or tense the forearms and the chest.

Lock off Training
2 sets each (each set is 2 5 second lock offs with each hand)
straight down pull on 1 pad crimps on 45 degree wall (okay not very hard)
gastone lock offs are really hard
Note: very good first lock off training, I think that the 45 degree wall makes it way harder than it should be. I should try to do train these at the gym on the less steep wall.

Finish with 3x5 ring dips (these to strength the dip press for Xevior's roof and they should also make manteling boulders easeir.)

Max R Training 11-03-10

Warm up
Repeaters on yellows (v0) and green (v2)
1 lap on the traverse wall (too crowded).

4x4s "Tolerance Training"
Red these are really helping with technique
White I fell a few times on this one but repeating it was a very good exercise on learning to adjust foot and body positioning.
White This particular white I climbed on Monday and today I had it really wired. Doing the 4x4s on the same problems during the entire week is really showing that the improvement comes from technique and flowing movement.

Max R
Campus Training Day 4
- Ladder all - 1 lap up only
- Ladder skip (1-3-4-5-6-7) 1 set leading each hand.
I tried to go 1-3-5-7 but did not have the power to pull through 5.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-1-3-1-3-1-3-1
One set with each hand. These felt hard today.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-2-3-2-3-2-3
One set each hand. I didn't have the energy to finish these, but did partial sets for each hand.
Decided to call it a day before I hurt anything.

I think that training for the 3rd consecutive day was the reason I did poorly today.
I will take 2 days off and try to train again on Saturday.

MAX R Training Log 11-01-10

WARM UP
4 laps on traverse wall.
1st lap jugs, 2nd lap crimps, 3rd lap back steps, 4th lap underclings.

4x4s
Pink (v3) - 4th time it felt easier
Pink (v3) - Very good crimpy problem, it felt easier.
Red (v4) - Hard, fell a few times but sent 4 times.
White (v5) - Medium, didn't feel that hard.
(16 boulder problems total)

Strength
Boulder Black and worked on Silver. I got half way up the silver and the black took 2 or so tries.

MAX R
Campus Training Day 3
Campus Ladders (1,2,3,4,5,6,7) 5 Sets with about 3 minutes Rest
Fingers taped but today it felt a little harder than the previous campus sessions.
My fingers were tired, probably from doing 4x4 and traversing (lots of moves)

Gymnastic Exercises
L-Sit support to Adv. Tuck Planche (hold 3-5 seconds each) 4 sets
This was a very good routine. I would hold the L-Sit for about 5 seconds (easy) and transition to PL adv. tuck.

Finished with 3 Cast Wall Walks

(need to work towards 10 walks for a better workout)

MAX R Training Log 10-28-10

Warm Up
10,20,30,40 moves with approx. 3-5 minutes between rounds.

1 set of 4x4 (REDS) easy.
I should do a full 4x4 workout. Chad believes that it will help my climbing more than the hangboard or the campus board.

Mike and I boulder a few of the new problems.
RED and white

Skill, Strategy, route reading training.
We made out problems with small finger buckets, with some dynamic moves.
Very good

Campus Training Day2
Ladder 1-3-4-6-7 (2 sets with 1 minute rest between sets) VERY GOOD
Touches 1-3-1 (3 sets with 2 minutes rest between sets) VERY GOOD
Touches 1-3-2-3-2-3-2-3 (2 sets for each arm with 2 minutes rest between sets) HARD

Conditioning
3x3 wall walks - This was very hard at the 3rd set.

1 set of Front Lever Rows approx. 5 rows.

**This was a very good day of training**

Special Note:
Next time don't skip the 4x4 and do some lock off training.

MAX R Training Log 10-26-10

Warm Up:
-traverse wall 3 sets.
1st set with jugs only
2nd set with 2 finger 2nd team
3rd set with 2 finger 3rd team
-random climbing in bouldering cave.

-Strength
3 reds (4th could not finish) mostly crimps
1 white (very easy, more like pink)
various tries on other white and reds

MAX R
campus board ladders (UP ONLY)
5 sets with about 2 minutes rest
last set I campus down
Felt very strong and campusing didn't hurt fingers or elbows.
* Wall walks between campus sets (getting strong with these)

Power Hangs on small campus rungs (5 seconds)
2 sets of 5 hangs with 5 seconds between hangs
*felt strong, made all of them with open crimp.

Max Strength Training log 10-25-2010

Got to the climbing gym too late *8:30pm.
Did 3 sets across the traverse wall.
1. This is working good at building speed on moving hands and feet, but the angle of the wall probably doesn't help develop any real bouldering skills.

2. Started bouldering and couldn't get up any problems with ease.
All the problems felt hard.
What is the problem, after weeks of strength training.
Les is getting really strong, climbing Light Greens after a few tries.

3. This was supposed to be the first campus session but didn't have time.

4. Went home and tried to do a HIT workout but didn't have much energy.

5. Front lever conditioning on the gymnastic rings. Very hard on my shoulders, why?
I think that training the German hangs is making my shoulders weaker.
6. some push ups