Warm Up
Climb several easy boulder problems
Strength
Climb about 4 really hard problems that took several attempts to send.
White V5, Black V6, Silver V7
4x4 Training Session
White x4
White x4
White x4
Silver x1 could not finish a full set.
This was a short session 4 days before the Bishop trip so I didn't want to get my fingers twicked or tired.
Showing posts with label Max Strength Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Max Strength Training. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Max Strength Training Log 11-06-10
Today I decided to do a strength training day. I know that I am on my Tolerance Phase but I feel like I could use more strength before my trip to Bishop.
This was my first Hangboard workout, I didn't want to injure a finger or cause any problems before the first bouldering trip of the seasson, so I decided not to add any weight to the hangs.
Warm UP.
Jump rope - to get the heart rate up
Pull ups on the guys to prepare the fingers and the forearms for the hangboard training.
Did 3 sets of 6 hight pull ups ("high pull ups I do by pulling up higher than a normal pull into the area where I can start pressing for a dip. Like bar muscle ups) This "high pull up exercise seems to really help will wrist and forearm strength, plus it feels good to pull up that high. very powerfull.
Hangboard workout (no weight added)
sets of 5X10 second hangs with 3 minutes rest between sets.
1. slopers 5X10 (add 20lbs next time)
2. 4 fingers 1 pad. open crimps (add 20lbs next time)
3. 3 fingers 2 pad. open crimps (add 10lbs next time)
4. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (smallest edge) open crimp(add 10lbs next time)
5. 2 finger 2nd team - 5-5-5-3-2. Pain toward end of set (take 10lbs off next time)
6. 3 finger 1 pad wide grip. 5 sec. hangs. HARD (take 10lbs off next time)
7. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (add 20lbs next time)
8. 2 finger 3rd team. 5 sec. hangs. (add 10lbs next time)
Note: Overall it felt very good except for the minor pain during the 2 finger pocket hangs. Next time I should warm up the fingers more, tape and hang straight down and try not to pull or tense the forearms and the chest.
Lock off Training
2 sets each (each set is 2 5 second lock offs with each hand)
straight down pull on 1 pad crimps on 45 degree wall (okay not very hard)
gastone lock offs are really hard
Note: very good first lock off training, I think that the 45 degree wall makes it way harder than it should be. I should try to do train these at the gym on the less steep wall.
Finish with 3x5 ring dips (these to strength the dip press for Xevior's roof and they should also make manteling boulders easeir.)
This was my first Hangboard workout, I didn't want to injure a finger or cause any problems before the first bouldering trip of the seasson, so I decided not to add any weight to the hangs.
Warm UP.
Jump rope - to get the heart rate up
Pull ups on the guys to prepare the fingers and the forearms for the hangboard training.
Did 3 sets of 6 hight pull ups ("high pull ups I do by pulling up higher than a normal pull into the area where I can start pressing for a dip. Like bar muscle ups) This "high pull up exercise seems to really help will wrist and forearm strength, plus it feels good to pull up that high. very powerfull.
Hangboard workout (no weight added)
sets of 5X10 second hangs with 3 minutes rest between sets.
1. slopers 5X10 (add 20lbs next time)
2. 4 fingers 1 pad. open crimps (add 20lbs next time)
3. 3 fingers 2 pad. open crimps (add 10lbs next time)
4. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (smallest edge) open crimp(add 10lbs next time)
5. 2 finger 2nd team - 5-5-5-3-2. Pain toward end of set (take 10lbs off next time)
6. 3 finger 1 pad wide grip. 5 sec. hangs. HARD (take 10lbs off next time)
7. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (add 20lbs next time)
8. 2 finger 3rd team. 5 sec. hangs. (add 10lbs next time)
Note: Overall it felt very good except for the minor pain during the 2 finger pocket hangs. Next time I should warm up the fingers more, tape and hang straight down and try not to pull or tense the forearms and the chest.
Lock off Training
2 sets each (each set is 2 5 second lock offs with each hand)
straight down pull on 1 pad crimps on 45 degree wall (okay not very hard)
gastone lock offs are really hard
Note: very good first lock off training, I think that the 45 degree wall makes it way harder than it should be. I should try to do train these at the gym on the less steep wall.
Finish with 3x5 ring dips (these to strength the dip press for Xevior's roof and they should also make manteling boulders easeir.)
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Max Strength Training log 10-25-2010
Got to the climbing gym too late *8:30pm.
Did 3 sets across the traverse wall.
1. This is working good at building speed on moving hands and feet, but the angle of the wall probably doesn't help develop any real bouldering skills.
2. Started bouldering and couldn't get up any problems with ease.
All the problems felt hard.
What is the problem, after weeks of strength training.
Les is getting really strong, climbing Light Greens after a few tries.
3. This was supposed to be the first campus session but didn't have time.
4. Went home and tried to do a HIT workout but didn't have much energy.
5. Front lever conditioning on the gymnastic rings. Very hard on my shoulders, why?
I think that training the German hangs is making my shoulders weaker.
6. some push ups
Did 3 sets across the traverse wall.
1. This is working good at building speed on moving hands and feet, but the angle of the wall probably doesn't help develop any real bouldering skills.
2. Started bouldering and couldn't get up any problems with ease.
All the problems felt hard.
What is the problem, after weeks of strength training.
Les is getting really strong, climbing Light Greens after a few tries.
3. This was supposed to be the first campus session but didn't have time.
4. Went home and tried to do a HIT workout but didn't have much energy.
5. Front lever conditioning on the gymnastic rings. Very hard on my shoulders, why?
I think that training the German hangs is making my shoulders weaker.
6. some push ups
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