Workout of the Day 11-10-10

Warm Up
Jump Rope
FL vent - 5 sec. by 60 sec.
3x5 high pull ups

Climbing Endurance "Tolerance"
10 moves rest 1 min.
20 moves rest 2 min.
30 moves rest 3 min. HARD forearms very pumped
20 moves rest 2 min.
10 moves rest 1 min.

Hangboard 5X5
4 finger half pad - 10lbs (add another 10lbs next time)
pinch - 10lbs
2 finger 2nd team 1 pad - 5,5,5,4,3
3 finger 1 pad - 10lbs (med hard, stay with 10lbs)
4 finger 1/2 pad - 10lbs (add another 10 lbs next time)
2 finger 1st team - 10 lbs - 5,5,5,4,4

Note: Looks like a good workout, If too much time between hangboard workout DO NOT add the xtra weight.

Finish with;
One Arm pull ups (assisted by pinching edge of plywood base)
2x3 each arm.
Left arm I could only manage 2 1/2 each set.
PPP 3x5
Ring Dips 3x5

Max Strength Training Log 11-06-10

Today I decided to do a strength training day. I know that I am on my Tolerance Phase but I feel like I could use more strength before my trip to Bishop.

This was my first Hangboard workout, I didn't want to injure a finger or cause any problems before the first bouldering trip of the seasson, so I decided not to add any weight to the hangs.

Warm UP.
Jump rope - to get the heart rate up
Pull ups on the guys to prepare the fingers and the forearms for the hangboard training.
Did 3 sets of 6 hight pull ups ("high pull ups I do by pulling up higher than a normal pull into the area where I can start pressing for a dip. Like bar muscle ups) This "high pull up exercise seems to really help will wrist and forearm strength, plus it feels good to pull up that high. very powerfull.

Hangboard workout (no weight added)
sets of 5X10 second hangs with 3 minutes rest between sets.
1. slopers 5X10 (add 20lbs next time)
2. 4 fingers 1 pad. open crimps (add 20lbs next time)
3. 3 fingers 2 pad. open crimps (add 10lbs next time)
4. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (smallest edge) open crimp(add 10lbs next time)
5. 2 finger 2nd team - 5-5-5-3-2. Pain toward end of set (take 10lbs off next time)
6. 3 finger 1 pad wide grip. 5 sec. hangs. HARD (take 10lbs off next time)
7. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (add 20lbs next time)
8. 2 finger 3rd team. 5 sec. hangs. (add 10lbs next time)

Note: Overall it felt very good except for the minor pain during the 2 finger pocket hangs. Next time I should warm up the fingers more, tape and hang straight down and try not to pull or tense the forearms and the chest.

Lock off Training
2 sets each (each set is 2 5 second lock offs with each hand)
straight down pull on 1 pad crimps on 45 degree wall (okay not very hard)
gastone lock offs are really hard
Note: very good first lock off training, I think that the 45 degree wall makes it way harder than it should be. I should try to do train these at the gym on the less steep wall.

Finish with 3x5 ring dips (these to strength the dip press for Xevior's roof and they should also make manteling boulders easeir.)