Workout of the Day 11-15-10

Warm Up
Climb several easy boulder problems

Strength
Climb about 4 really hard problems that took several attempts to send.
White V5, Black V6, Silver V7

4x4 Training Session
White x4
White x4
White x4
Silver x1 could not finish a full set.

This was a short session 4 days before the Bishop trip so I didn't want to get my fingers twicked or tired.

Power Endurance Training 11-09-10

WARM UP
20-30 minutes climbing yellows, orange, blue. I climb with minimal rest until I started feeling a slight forearm pump.

4x4 Training
Climb each problem 4 consecutive times with 4 minutes rest between each set.
Pink V3
Red V4
White V5 (X-2 only) this particular white was very hard.
White V5
White V5
White V5
Black V6 (Sloper and pinch climb, easy on the fingers, a good one to finish with after a long 4x4 session.

*26 boulder problems total*

Basic Strength Exercises
3 sets of 5 Dips
3 sets of 5 Pseudo Planche Push Ups

L-Sit PB 4x15 sec. holds (still shake a bit toward the end of the 15 sec.)
-Run out of time to finish my wall walks and planche training.

**Very good workout today. I was able to repeat every climb 4 times and learn new beta and better body movement toward the end of each set. I was very surpriced that the climbs didn't feel harder towards the end.
Climbing the same problems that I climbed last week was a good thing because I was able to remember beta and work on gripping the holds with just enough force to stay on the wall and not overgrip.
This is by far the best climbing exercise I have tried, I feel like I make a lot a progress with only 3 sessions. I also feel(and it shows on my journal)like I am moving my base strength towards V5 V6.
When I get to the point where I can do V6 all day long, then I might be able to work on V10.

Note: Do one more 4x4 workout session before the trip to Bishop and don't skip the week rest.

Max R Training 11-03-10

Warm up
Repeaters on yellows (v0) and green (v2)
1 lap on the traverse wall (too crowded).

4x4s "Tolerance Training"
Red these are really helping with technique
White I fell a few times on this one but repeating it was a very good exercise on learning to adjust foot and body positioning.
White This particular white I climbed on Monday and today I had it really wired. Doing the 4x4s on the same problems during the entire week is really showing that the improvement comes from technique and flowing movement.

Max R
Campus Training Day 4
- Ladder all - 1 lap up only
- Ladder skip (1-3-4-5-6-7) 1 set leading each hand.
I tried to go 1-3-5-7 but did not have the power to pull through 5.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-1-3-1-3-1-3-1
One set with each hand. These felt hard today.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-2-3-2-3-2-3
One set each hand. I didn't have the energy to finish these, but did partial sets for each hand.
Decided to call it a day before I hurt anything.

I think that training for the 3rd consecutive day was the reason I did poorly today.
I will take 2 days off and try to train again on Saturday.

MAX R Training Log 11-01-10

WARM UP
4 laps on traverse wall.
1st lap jugs, 2nd lap crimps, 3rd lap back steps, 4th lap underclings.

4x4s
Pink (v3) - 4th time it felt easier
Pink (v3) - Very good crimpy problem, it felt easier.
Red (v4) - Hard, fell a few times but sent 4 times.
White (v5) - Medium, didn't feel that hard.
(16 boulder problems total)

Strength
Boulder Black and worked on Silver. I got half way up the silver and the black took 2 or so tries.

MAX R
Campus Training Day 3
Campus Ladders (1,2,3,4,5,6,7) 5 Sets with about 3 minutes Rest
Fingers taped but today it felt a little harder than the previous campus sessions.
My fingers were tired, probably from doing 4x4 and traversing (lots of moves)

Gymnastic Exercises
L-Sit support to Adv. Tuck Planche (hold 3-5 seconds each) 4 sets
This was a very good routine. I would hold the L-Sit for about 5 seconds (easy) and transition to PL adv. tuck.

Finished with 3 Cast Wall Walks

(need to work towards 10 walks for a better workout)

MAX R Training Log 10-28-10

Warm Up
10,20,30,40 moves with approx. 3-5 minutes between rounds.

1 set of 4x4 (REDS) easy.
I should do a full 4x4 workout. Chad believes that it will help my climbing more than the hangboard or the campus board.

Mike and I boulder a few of the new problems.
RED and white

Skill, Strategy, route reading training.
We made out problems with small finger buckets, with some dynamic moves.
Very good

Campus Training Day2
Ladder 1-3-4-6-7 (2 sets with 1 minute rest between sets) VERY GOOD
Touches 1-3-1 (3 sets with 2 minutes rest between sets) VERY GOOD
Touches 1-3-2-3-2-3-2-3 (2 sets for each arm with 2 minutes rest between sets) HARD

Conditioning
3x3 wall walks - This was very hard at the 3rd set.

1 set of Front Lever Rows approx. 5 rows.

**This was a very good day of training**

Special Note:
Next time don't skip the 4x4 and do some lock off training.