Workout of the Day 11-15-10

Warm Up
Climb several easy boulder problems

Strength
Climb about 4 really hard problems that took several attempts to send.
White V5, Black V6, Silver V7

4x4 Training Session
White x4
White x4
White x4
Silver x1 could not finish a full set.

This was a short session 4 days before the Bishop trip so I didn't want to get my fingers twicked or tired.

Workout of the Day 11-10-10

Warm Up
Jump Rope
FL vent - 5 sec. by 60 sec.
3x5 high pull ups

Climbing Endurance "Tolerance"
10 moves rest 1 min.
20 moves rest 2 min.
30 moves rest 3 min. HARD forearms very pumped
20 moves rest 2 min.
10 moves rest 1 min.

Hangboard 5X5
4 finger half pad - 10lbs (add another 10lbs next time)
pinch - 10lbs
2 finger 2nd team 1 pad - 5,5,5,4,3
3 finger 1 pad - 10lbs (med hard, stay with 10lbs)
4 finger 1/2 pad - 10lbs (add another 10 lbs next time)
2 finger 1st team - 10 lbs - 5,5,5,4,4

Note: Looks like a good workout, If too much time between hangboard workout DO NOT add the xtra weight.

Finish with;
One Arm pull ups (assisted by pinching edge of plywood base)
2x3 each arm.
Left arm I could only manage 2 1/2 each set.
PPP 3x5
Ring Dips 3x5

Power Endurance Training 11-09-10

WARM UP
20-30 minutes climbing yellows, orange, blue. I climb with minimal rest until I started feeling a slight forearm pump.

4x4 Training
Climb each problem 4 consecutive times with 4 minutes rest between each set.
Pink V3
Red V4
White V5 (X-2 only) this particular white was very hard.
White V5
White V5
White V5
Black V6 (Sloper and pinch climb, easy on the fingers, a good one to finish with after a long 4x4 session.

*26 boulder problems total*

Basic Strength Exercises
3 sets of 5 Dips
3 sets of 5 Pseudo Planche Push Ups

L-Sit PB 4x15 sec. holds (still shake a bit toward the end of the 15 sec.)
-Run out of time to finish my wall walks and planche training.

**Very good workout today. I was able to repeat every climb 4 times and learn new beta and better body movement toward the end of each set. I was very surpriced that the climbs didn't feel harder towards the end.
Climbing the same problems that I climbed last week was a good thing because I was able to remember beta and work on gripping the holds with just enough force to stay on the wall and not overgrip.
This is by far the best climbing exercise I have tried, I feel like I make a lot a progress with only 3 sessions. I also feel(and it shows on my journal)like I am moving my base strength towards V5 V6.
When I get to the point where I can do V6 all day long, then I might be able to work on V10.

Note: Do one more 4x4 workout session before the trip to Bishop and don't skip the week rest.