Power Endurance Training 11-09-10

WARM UP
20-30 minutes climbing yellows, orange, blue. I climb with minimal rest until I started feeling a slight forearm pump.

4x4 Training
Climb each problem 4 consecutive times with 4 minutes rest between each set.
Pink V3
Red V4
White V5 (X-2 only) this particular white was very hard.
White V5
White V5
White V5
Black V6 (Sloper and pinch climb, easy on the fingers, a good one to finish with after a long 4x4 session.

*26 boulder problems total*

Basic Strength Exercises
3 sets of 5 Dips
3 sets of 5 Pseudo Planche Push Ups

L-Sit PB 4x15 sec. holds (still shake a bit toward the end of the 15 sec.)
-Run out of time to finish my wall walks and planche training.

**Very good workout today. I was able to repeat every climb 4 times and learn new beta and better body movement toward the end of each set. I was very surpriced that the climbs didn't feel harder towards the end.
Climbing the same problems that I climbed last week was a good thing because I was able to remember beta and work on gripping the holds with just enough force to stay on the wall and not overgrip.
This is by far the best climbing exercise I have tried, I feel like I make a lot a progress with only 3 sessions. I also feel(and it shows on my journal)like I am moving my base strength towards V5 V6.
When I get to the point where I can do V6 all day long, then I might be able to work on V10.

Note: Do one more 4x4 workout session before the trip to Bishop and don't skip the week rest.

Max R Training 11-03-10

Warm up
Repeaters on yellows (v0) and green (v2)
1 lap on the traverse wall (too crowded).

4x4s "Tolerance Training"
Red these are really helping with technique
White I fell a few times on this one but repeating it was a very good exercise on learning to adjust foot and body positioning.
White This particular white I climbed on Monday and today I had it really wired. Doing the 4x4s on the same problems during the entire week is really showing that the improvement comes from technique and flowing movement.

Max R
Campus Training Day 4
- Ladder all - 1 lap up only
- Ladder skip (1-3-4-5-6-7) 1 set leading each hand.
I tried to go 1-3-5-7 but did not have the power to pull through 5.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-1-3-1-3-1-3-1
One set with each hand. These felt hard today.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-2-3-2-3-2-3
One set each hand. I didn't have the energy to finish these, but did partial sets for each hand.
Decided to call it a day before I hurt anything.

I think that training for the 3rd consecutive day was the reason I did poorly today.
I will take 2 days off and try to train again on Saturday.

Miniature Saturday Night Live with Photoshop

Here is the orginal image

Here is the modified image.

A miniature me climbing Saturday Night Live in Joshua Tree.

The original photo was taken by my friend Scott, maybe like 4 or 5 years ago. I came across it today and decided to play in Photoshop and I came out with this photo effect.

The effect is called Tiltshift (do a search on Flickr for great examples) and the idea behind it is to make it look like this is photograph of miniatures. This website has a bit more info on it; http://www.tiltshiftmaker.com/. The effect seems to work only when the photos are taken from birds eye view perspective, since that is the way we would view a scene of miniatures.

Can't wait to go out and take some new bouldering pictures with this effect in mind.

Climbing "The Incinerator" 12a at Big Bear

Today turned out to be a wonderful Sunday. The temperature was supposed to be in the 80s here in Costa Mesa and close to 100 inland.
I had a "feeling" that the weather was going to be much cooler up at Big Bear and it was. We got there around 10am and it was beautiful. There were some rain clouds hovering over the mountains, but all I was thinking was that rain would make it more exciting.
We were on the rock around 11 for warm ups.
Around 12 or 1 we had a nice lunch and rested.
A few more climbs then it started to rail and hail a little bit. We rested then we headed up to The Incinerator. I had never heard of this climb until my friend Steve told me about it.
The route is very straight forward, overhanging arete with only 4 bolts + anchor. The moves are very bouldery and technical at the top were the crux is.
Here are some photos.
We didn't red point but who cares, we had a wonderful time breathing fresh mountain air and climbing rocks. I'll definitely go back to finish it.

2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships To Stream Live Online

I was looking through some climbing blogs and just ran accross this.....
finals for the upcoming Mammut Bouldering Championship comp at the 2009 Summer Outdoor Retailer trade show will be streamed online on July 21st @ 8:30 EST.
We'll just have to wait and see what kind of coverage they end up with.
I'll definately be tuning in.


I could not figure out how to have the picture link to the website so here it is.
2009 Mammut Bouldering Champinonships - Tune in July 21st @ 8:30 EST

New boulder problem 2 @ Black Mountain

Another problem from my 4th of July trip to Black Mountain.




This boulder problem was my favorite of the weekend. It is a hard (V5 or 6) traversing crack to a (my opinion) 4 star mantle top out. The landing is excellent and it was in the shade the entire afternoon. The crux is at the start of the problem, unless you have a problem doing mantles. This boulder is right next to the tall arete (boulder problem 1) from the previous post. The arete problem is probably a hard 8, because of hight and lack of features on top of the boulder.
I'll post more pictures or video from my next trip.

Till then, Ride safe and climb hard.

New boulder problem 1 @ Black Mountain

The wife and I headed to Black Mountain for the 4th of July. The weather was ok, not too hot (maybe low 80s) during the day but cool in the shade.
Here is one of the many boulders I found this weekend. Well, I don't know if I am the first one to find it, but it seemed like nobody had ever tried to climbed it. It is a very tall overhanging arete, (15+ feet) with a nice landing. I only attempted the start because I didn't want to risk a long fall with no spotter. On this same boulder there seems to be a few other problems, but the arete seems to be the one that stand out the most.

Climbing Goals for 2007

I have gotten to the point where I can look at my life and understand that it is composed of various componets/activities not just "life". One major componet of my life is rock climbing, so today I see the need to set compeling goals that will catapult me to a higher level.

I'll brake them down in smaller goals that will sum up to a mega goal.

Bouldering goals:

Feb. I will climb my first V8

April V9

and the remeinder of the year I will work on a V10.

The goal is to dominate @ V10

Sport climbing goals:

Today I am in no shape for leading. I have no endurance and my mental strenght is not where it should be. Now that I know this, I know what to train and I am really excited to see what I can do this year.

Feb. I will lead 11b

March I will lead 11c

April 11d

Summer will witness my first 12a

The rest of the year I will focus on 13a

Stay with me in this quest for higher grades and adventure. I am in search for more "Strenght in Numbers".