Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Workout of the Day 11-16-10

Warm up
Jump rope
pull ups on hangboard (about 2x7)
PPP ups (about 10)

BtGB workout (pushing muscles)
4 giant sets
Ring Dips X3
PPP X5
FL X3 (5 sec holds)
One Arm Pull Ups X2 each arm

Good workout, felt tired after every set.
I really like the PPPUps, they seem to target lots of the pushing muscles of the upper body.

Workout of the Day 11-15-10

Warm Up
Climb several easy boulder problems

Strength
Climb about 4 really hard problems that took several attempts to send.
White V5, Black V6, Silver V7

4x4 Training Session
White x4
White x4
White x4
Silver x1 could not finish a full set.

This was a short session 4 days before the Bishop trip so I didn't want to get my fingers twicked or tired.

Workout of the Day 11-10-10

Warm Up
Jump Rope
FL vent - 5 sec. by 60 sec.
3x5 high pull ups

Climbing Endurance "Tolerance"
10 moves rest 1 min.
20 moves rest 2 min.
30 moves rest 3 min. HARD forearms very pumped
20 moves rest 2 min.
10 moves rest 1 min.

Hangboard 5X5
4 finger half pad - 10lbs (add another 10lbs next time)
pinch - 10lbs
2 finger 2nd team 1 pad - 5,5,5,4,3
3 finger 1 pad - 10lbs (med hard, stay with 10lbs)
4 finger 1/2 pad - 10lbs (add another 10 lbs next time)
2 finger 1st team - 10 lbs - 5,5,5,4,4

Note: Looks like a good workout, If too much time between hangboard workout DO NOT add the xtra weight.

Finish with;
One Arm pull ups (assisted by pinching edge of plywood base)
2x3 each arm.
Left arm I could only manage 2 1/2 each set.
PPP 3x5
Ring Dips 3x5

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Power Endurance Training 11-09-10

WARM UP
20-30 minutes climbing yellows, orange, blue. I climb with minimal rest until I started feeling a slight forearm pump.

4x4 Training
Climb each problem 4 consecutive times with 4 minutes rest between each set.
Pink V3
Red V4
White V5 (X-2 only) this particular white was very hard.
White V5
White V5
White V5
Black V6 (Sloper and pinch climb, easy on the fingers, a good one to finish with after a long 4x4 session.

*26 boulder problems total*

Basic Strength Exercises
3 sets of 5 Dips
3 sets of 5 Pseudo Planche Push Ups

L-Sit PB 4x15 sec. holds (still shake a bit toward the end of the 15 sec.)
-Run out of time to finish my wall walks and planche training.

**Very good workout today. I was able to repeat every climb 4 times and learn new beta and better body movement toward the end of each set. I was very surpriced that the climbs didn't feel harder towards the end.
Climbing the same problems that I climbed last week was a good thing because I was able to remember beta and work on gripping the holds with just enough force to stay on the wall and not overgrip.
This is by far the best climbing exercise I have tried, I feel like I make a lot a progress with only 3 sessions. I also feel(and it shows on my journal)like I am moving my base strength towards V5 V6.
When I get to the point where I can do V6 all day long, then I might be able to work on V10.

Note: Do one more 4x4 workout session before the trip to Bishop and don't skip the week rest.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Max Strength Training Log 11-06-10

Today I decided to do a strength training day. I know that I am on my Tolerance Phase but I feel like I could use more strength before my trip to Bishop.

This was my first Hangboard workout, I didn't want to injure a finger or cause any problems before the first bouldering trip of the seasson, so I decided not to add any weight to the hangs.

Warm UP.
Jump rope - to get the heart rate up
Pull ups on the guys to prepare the fingers and the forearms for the hangboard training.
Did 3 sets of 6 hight pull ups ("high pull ups I do by pulling up higher than a normal pull into the area where I can start pressing for a dip. Like bar muscle ups) This "high pull up exercise seems to really help will wrist and forearm strength, plus it feels good to pull up that high. very powerfull.

Hangboard workout (no weight added)
sets of 5X10 second hangs with 3 minutes rest between sets.
1. slopers 5X10 (add 20lbs next time)
2. 4 fingers 1 pad. open crimps (add 20lbs next time)
3. 3 fingers 2 pad. open crimps (add 10lbs next time)
4. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (smallest edge) open crimp(add 10lbs next time)
5. 2 finger 2nd team - 5-5-5-3-2. Pain toward end of set (take 10lbs off next time)
6. 3 finger 1 pad wide grip. 5 sec. hangs. HARD (take 10lbs off next time)
7. 4 fingers 1/2 pad (add 20lbs next time)
8. 2 finger 3rd team. 5 sec. hangs. (add 10lbs next time)

Note: Overall it felt very good except for the minor pain during the 2 finger pocket hangs. Next time I should warm up the fingers more, tape and hang straight down and try not to pull or tense the forearms and the chest.

Lock off Training
2 sets each (each set is 2 5 second lock offs with each hand)
straight down pull on 1 pad crimps on 45 degree wall (okay not very hard)
gastone lock offs are really hard
Note: very good first lock off training, I think that the 45 degree wall makes it way harder than it should be. I should try to do train these at the gym on the less steep wall.

Finish with 3x5 ring dips (these to strength the dip press for Xevior's roof and they should also make manteling boulders easeir.)

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Max R Training 11-03-10

Warm up
Repeaters on yellows (v0) and green (v2)
1 lap on the traverse wall (too crowded).

4x4s "Tolerance Training"
Red these are really helping with technique
White I fell a few times on this one but repeating it was a very good exercise on learning to adjust foot and body positioning.
White This particular white I climbed on Monday and today I had it really wired. Doing the 4x4s on the same problems during the entire week is really showing that the improvement comes from technique and flowing movement.

Max R
Campus Training Day 4

- Ladder all - 1 lap up only
- Ladder skip (1-3-4-5-6-7) 1 set leading each hand.
I tried to go 1-3-5-7 but did not have the power to pull through 5.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-1-3-1-3-1-3-1
One set with each hand. These felt hard today.
REST 5 MIN
- Touches 1-3-2-3-2-3-2-3
One set each hand. I didn't have the energy to finish these, but did partial sets for each hand.
Decided to call it a day before I hurt anything.

I think that training for the 3rd consecutive day was the reason I did poorly today.
I will take 2 days off and try to train again on Saturday.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

BtGB Work of the Day 11-02-10

WARM UP
jump rope 5-10min
shoulder dislocators
****10 pull ups on hangboard (pull up pass chin, like a muscle up)
10 push ups on rings

FSP
Straddle L-low 6sec. holds X 10 **HARD
PL adv. tuck 5 sec. holds X 12 * Feeling Stronger
FL on rings 5 sec. holds X (3 FL) (3 FL Straddle) (6 FL one leg tuck)

WOD
Complete 4 rounds
3 Handstand push ups (HeSP elevated pg. 78)
5 XR PPP (pg 63)
6,4,3,3 XR Dips - These were very hard, it felt like the XR PPP tired my triceps and I couldn't do 7 reps.
20' L-Sit hops. The wod called for L-Sit walks but all I could manage was hops.


Finished with 2x10 Wrist Push Ups (still on knees)

I THINK THIS WAS THE PERFECT UPPER BODY WORK OUT. THIS IS THE ONE FOR A NON CLIMBING DAY, ALL PRESSING AND NO PULLING.

Monday, November 1, 2010

MAX R Training Log 11-01-10

WARM UP
4 laps on traverse wall.
1st lap jugs, 2nd lap crimps, 3rd lap back steps, 4th lap underclings.

4x4s
Pink (v3) - 4th time it felt easier
Pink (v3) - Very good crimpy problem, it felt easier.
Red (v4) - Hard, fell a few times but sent 4 times.
White (v5) - Medium, didn't feel that hard.
(16 boulder problems total)

Strength
Boulder Black and worked on Silver. I got half way up the silver and the black took 2 or so tries.

MAX R
Campus Training Day 3
Campus Ladders (1,2,3,4,5,6,7) 5 Sets with about 3 minutes Rest
Fingers taped but today it felt a little harder than the previous campus sessions.
My fingers were tired, probably from doing 4x4 and traversing (lots of moves)

Gymnastic Exercises
L-Sit support to Adv. Tuck Planche (hold 3-5 seconds each) 4 sets
This was a very good routine. I would hold the L-Sit for about 5 seconds (easy) and transition to PL adv. tuck.

Finished with 3 Cast Wall Walks

(need to work towards 10 walks for a better workout)